Cowbell is one of those restaurants that you want to like before you go there. Their philosophy is 1. buy from local farmers and 2. make it from scratch, from there breads and butters to their own sausages. This is the kind of place I want to support both in support of our local farmers and fellow purist cook so we gave it a try.
First thing you should know is that it is in Parkdale, If you don't know Parkdale, it's shady, well, some locals would refer to it as "colourful" I have lived and presently work in the area and believe me, the colour fades quickly. And if you are attempting to pay for your parking you will be relentlessly hounded for spare change. That is just a fact, if it's a deterrent, so be it. For me it is, I don't want go too far into it but I see eating out is a total experience and if I feel any discomfort or irritation, it will be a factor on whether I return or not.
As we left our earthy doorman a few dollars heavier, we entered the dimly but sufficiently lit restaurant with paintings of food on the walls and a hexagon-ceramic tiled floor I have seen in many converted house/apartments friends of mine have rented in the city. The seating is not too crowded for a small place and there is a little bar in the back which serves little purpose in my eyes but I didn't come here for the scotch. I must stress that you should pick your seats wisely, because as we were being seated we were not given menus, Rather I was asked to refer to the chalkboards that were strategically placed on the walls and unfortunately I had the menu to my back. Okay Cowbell's menu is ever evolving based on what is in season and what cuts of meat are available so I understand them not wanting to waste paper on each new menu but let's get some chalkboards on the waitstaff or mirrors, swivel chairs? Save on chalk and just have the waitress commit it to memory? As for the waitstaff, polite, unobtrusive and a bit organic, more organic than Starbucks, less than Fresh.
We started our meals with the homemade charcuterie or as I know it the salamis and other cured meat. It's been a while but I remember at least 6 different selections, small portions but very nice, my preferences being for the smoked meats (which are also done on the premises) accompanied with some mustard, pickled pearl onions and an assortment of breads and butter also freshly made. Very nice starter. And for dinner I ordered a Cassoulet. A rich french stew with sausage, duck and beans I have always wanted to make but knew I would be the only one eating the entire thing. So I thought it would be perfect to see what a stew made with real homemade sausage would taste like. What I got was not a stew but a deconstruction of a stew. Two different sausages, a duck leg confit ( braised in it's own fat), some roasted vegetables all on a plate of beans. Maybe the idea of making a sausage only to have to cut it up to flavour a stew was too painful for the chefs of Cowbell, but I wanted a melding of all those flavours. I won't buy a cake if it's a loaf of sponge and bowl of icing. I want a cake. Bad analogy but hopefully a clear one. Individually the sausage was good, as was the duck, but the beans were underdone, my wife actually ordered a bean dish as well and hers were also underdone. This may be something in the chef world that I am not familiar with, maybe in some cooking schools beans are meant to be al dente but to us uncultured folk, they was underdone.
After our meals we politely paid our waitress, as you may have guessed it was a bit pricey but not ridiculous for the quality of the ingredients. and quickly got back into our car before our doorman came at us again.
Overall Cowbell seems like place with a great concept and ideals, I just worry that the owner/chef is tooting his own horn too loudly to hear what the costumers want. Will I go back, maybe to give the menu another chance, but still not looking forward to the doorman.
6 out of 10 spoons.
